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I bought this plant about 3-4 weeks ago, and have had issues with it… | Pests, diseases and problems | Communauté Planta

Grace

I bought this plant about 3-4 weeks ago, and have had issues with it ever since. At first, there was a few browning spots on the leaves, which I knew was manageable. When I got it home, I noticed there was snails in the soil and spider mites. I kept the plant isolated up till about last week, repotted, and scrubbed pot. While I got rid of the pests, I’ve noticed the plant has been increasingly browning. I’ve barely watered it, maybe once since repotting last week. So I’m not sure if it’s underwatered, or poor choice of soil on my end. I went with a chunky aroid soil. I also had an issue where some of the leaves got super soft around the edges, which i think led to browning. Can anyone give me advice? I paid a lot for this plant and am disappointed so far.

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11 commentaires

  1. B Rills

    Google advice :-) Natural Snail Control Methods: Manual Removal: Check plants, especially under leaves and pots, in the early morning or late evening with a flashlight. Move them to a new location or dispose of them. Barrier Methods: Copper Tape: Place copper tape around the rim of pots; it causes a mild reaction with snail slime. Crushed Eggshells: Sprinkle dry, sharp eggshells over the soil surface to deter them. Diatomaceous Earth (DE): Apply food-grade DE to the topsoil, ensuring it stays dry, as it dehydrates them. Coffee Grounds: Scatter used coffee grounds around the base of the plant to act as a deterrent. Traps: Beer Trap: Place a shallow container, such as a bottle cap or jar lid, filled with beer or a yeast/water mixture on top of the soil. Lettuce Leaf Trap: Place a damp lettuce leaf on the soil overnight to lure them, then remove it in the morning. Repellent Sprays: Mix 1 tablespoon of ground hot red pepper and 1 tablespoon of powdered garlic in water, let it sit, and spray onto the soil and plant to repel pests. Submersion: For heavily infested small pots, submerge the pot in water for a few hours. The snails will crawl out or drown, and they will often come to the surface. Western Garden Centers Western Garden Centers +11 Preventative Tips: Water Wisely: Water in the morning so the soil is dry by night, making the environment less appealing to slugs and snails. Inspect New Plants: Check new plants for snails or eggs before placing them near other houseplants. Remove Hiding Places: Clear away any dead leaves or debris from the surface of the soil. Western Garden Centers Western Garden Centers +4 This video shows you how to make a beer trap to catch snails: Related video thumbnail 47s Stop Garden Snails for Good — 10 Natural

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  2. B Rills

    Also send pictures to Dr Planta

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  3. SuccySuccy

    Not sure about the snails and pests but also looks like a potential humidity issue (not enough!) with the browning edges and curling inward.

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  4. plantgeek

    browning tips and edges is usually a humidity problem, especially in variegated plants. you can purchase a humidifier or mist regularly to keep it happy

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  5. 9s

    Hi. This is a dieffenbachia which is a high light plant. Browning on tips like this is usually due to the plant not getting enough light to help it use water faster. The leaves should be upright on this variety and folding down is another low light sign. Bump up the light. Plants need sunlight and water to make food. If you only give water and not enough light, it’ll rot because the light signals the plant to drink. Without it, it just sips.

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  6. Grace

    Thanks everyone! I’ll try to put my humidifier closer to the plant and stick it under a grow light to see if there’s any changes

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  7. may

    botanist and horticulturist here! are those spots wet, or crispy feeling? have you fertilized this plant at all? what is the ambient humidity and temperature of this plant (estimate is fine) and what is the pH of your soil and water?

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    • Grace

      They’re crispy. I have it next to a humidifier since initially posting and haven’t noticed it get worse. So maybe it was lack of humidity ?

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    • may

      that's entirely possible depending on your zone/where you live and the ambient humidity where you are, Dieffenbachia is a zone 10-12 plant so periods of high humidity are what it would typically be accustomed to. based on that I wouldn't assume bacterial disease at this point and would agree probably environmental. I would recommend watering more consistently, keeping it near that humidifier, and I would start it on a regular fertility schedule. I wouldn't continue to change its environment anymore -when a plant shows signs of stress, it can sometimes take weeks depending on what that stressor is. for example, when we have an unexpected cold snap in South FL, it can take up to a year for that damage to present in some trees. I would make yourself some kind of schedule and stick to it and would refrain from anymore changes for awhile! 🙂

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  8. Franny

    Diffenbqchia doesn’t like direct sunlight and can be grown in low light. The tips look burned to me.

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    • Grace

      I’m not sure because it wasn’t in high light until it was moved as directed by others. I had it in a north facing room

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