My basil plant soil has gnats (or possibly white flies). I would normally use diatomaceous earth to get rid of them. However, the soil needs to stay damp for this plant and diatomaceous earth needs to be dry in order to use it. Does anyone have any suggestions of what I can use to get rid of them? I have neem oil but that's usually for the leaves and the actual plant itself.
I often water with neem oil in the water and use some small rocks as cover soil cover. The only other thing is using yellow sticky traps and a blue light trap. They might be deep in the soil and it might take a bit to get rid of them through the lifecycle.
0 J'aime I've never heard of a blue light trap. Which works better?
0 J'aime I feel the yellow traps work better since they are in the same pot as the plant so they trap them as soon as they emerge and fly. The blue light trap is kinda annoying at night, but it's another layer of capture for when the gnats are stronger flyers. I'm attaching photos of the products I use, but I don't think you need anything brand name
I have sticky tape traps that attached to the rim. Getting them as they start to fly doesn't prevent them from laying more eggs, does it? That's why I like diatomaceous earth. It works as the go into the dirt and/or come out of it.
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These two products mixed with water works by killing the larvae in the soil. Instructions are on the labels. Use either one. One is liquid and the other contains granules. 🪴🍀
@Sunny, I bought the Microbe-Lift BMC. Each of my plants with soil have been treated at least once but most have been treated twice or more. Since I have put it in my succulent fertilizer mix, even most of my ones that are in gritty mix have been treated. I'm not seeing a reduction in gnats/white flies. It's not like we have dozens flying around but there at least one that pesters me at my desk during the day and when I'm in the living room at night. How many times do I need to treat them to see a difference?
0 J'aime Treat it until they are gone. Also, change the conditions of the soil that promoted the growth of the pests. They like continuously moist soil. They like the rot that promote fungal growth. They like low air circulation that slows the water evaporation from the soil making it slow to dry. All of the above has to be addressed. You may need better draining soil without peat moss or sphagnum moss that hold too much moisture too long. Add perlite for better drainage and airflow to the roots. You may need to reduce how often you water to let the soil dry out more including the top soil. Note, that DE (diatomaceous earth) acts like sand and can slow the soil from drying which benefits the fungus gnats. Also, ensure you have good airflow around the plants to dry the soil faster. It’s a lot to keep up with. I have over two hundred plants inside for winter. I see about 1 fungus gnat a week at most. I don’t need yellow sticky traps. 🪴🍀
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I use predatory insects. There's a lot of beneficial mites as well as larger options that eat gnats and other pests.
0 J'aime What kind of insects? My plants are indoors. I don't put them outside.
0 J'aime My plants are also indoors. I buy the Special Blend Predatory Mite Mix from Nature's Good Guys; it's 4 different beneficial mite species that consume spider mites, thrips, fungus gnat larvae, and whiteflies, among other nasty pests. I don't notice the predatory mites too often, but I've had no more pest issues since their introduction.
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