alright orchid experts, Iām joining the group because although Iāve never had an orchid nor do I have any knowledge, I just got this one for $5 (iām assuming because the blooms fell or were knocked off) any and all suggestions are appreciated š„°
Congrats on your first orchid. From what I can see, it looks like itās in good shape - firm and smooth leaves, and reasonably healthy roots. Since it has finished blooming, you have two choices: 1- try for a second blooming, or 2- repot. If you go for a second bloom, cut the inflorescence back to 1/2ā above the topmost inactive node. From that node, the plant may produce a branch that will flower. Itās not guaranteed but fun to get more flowers. I typically donāt do this because I like to allow the plant a longer rest before it blooms again next year. I also feel like the blooms are less numerous the year after a second bloom (nothing scientific, just my gut). Personally I would repot. If you decide to do this, start by cutting the inflorescences back to the base of the plant. I find they just get in the way during the process. Typically, when you bring home a plant, they are in sphagnum that is tightly packed. Thatās not a great setup for the home grower. Or those in bark, the media is beginning to break down. Generally, youāll need to repot every 2-3 years or when the media is broken down. When you get ready to repot, first give the media a good soak as things are easier when hydrated. Take the orchid out of the pot and gently remove the media from the roots. Try get it all, but itās fine if you have to leave some so you donāt damage the roots. And donāt worry if you damage some roots. It isnāt great but it happens. Just try to minimize as much as possible. Examine the roots for health and pests. Trim off any dead or dying roots. Dead roots are papery or mushy, black or brown. Healthy roots are firm and green when wet, silvery when dry. Deeper into the media you may encounter pale yellow roots. It just means they havenāt been exposed to light. They are fine as long as they are firm. I would leave any wrinkled roots as long as they are firm. Use an orchid pot with additional ventilation. They are typically clear so you can monitor root development, and have ventilation holes on the sides of the pot. If you donāt have one, you can add holes to pot it came in or any other plastic pot you have on hand. Size the pot so that the roots just fit in the pot. They like a tight fit. To minimize transplant shock, use a similar mix to what it currently is in. Since your plant is in sphagnum, I would repot using a mix of 50% sphagnum 50% bark. That will allow moisture to hang around long enough for the roots to take in what they want without cutting off air circulation. If you are a heavy waterer you can reduce the amount of sphagnum in your mix. My preference is straight bark. The key is a loose airy mix that will allow the roots to dry between waterings. If you purchased a bag mix, look at the ingredients. I would stay away from anything that contains peat (stays too wet in my experience) or bags that feel like typical potting soil. I go for something that feels super chunky in the bag. They usually have bark, charcoal (not the bbq briquettes), pumice and/or perlite. Regardless of what mix you use, gently work it around the roots. I use an old chopstick for the job. The goal is to firmly seat the plant in the pot without packing the media. You want an airy mix that allows the roots to grab the water they want and then dry out. Orchids like their water but the LOVE for their roots to dry out. When I water, I soak the pot for 10-15 minutes. Wait until the media dries out (look for silver roots) before watering again. For my setup, that works out to roughly once a week. Each time I water, I use fertilizer at 1/4 strength. Once a month flush with pure water to reduce salt buildup (this is especially important if you are using synthetic fertilizer). Put your plant in in bright but indirect light. Direct sun will burn a phal pretty quickly. Too low and you wonāt get blooms. I have mine an a west window that is shaded by landscaping. They get absolutely no direct sun. If the edges of the leaves turn reddish you know you are at the max limit of sun for your plant. The best tip for orchids is learn. Read up on their care if you are so inclined. There are several channels on YouTube with information on orchid care, like Miss Orchid Girl, Here.. but Not, and Hello Plant Lovers. Podcasts like Plant Daddy and On the Ledge are also useful. The American Orchid Society is another handy resource. That have culture sheets for most orchids. I especially like their monthly to do lists. If you really want to dive into the rabbit hole, you can look for orchid societies in your area; nothing can replace interacting directly with growers that have been doing it for years. I find caring for orchids very rewarding and mildly frustrating. Luckily they are tough plants. As long as you donāt drown them, you will do great. Good luck!
5 gillningarfollowed your advice as best i could, the moss was SUPER tightly packed you were correct on that, so itās much less condensed now. i had to use the plastic it came in but cut additional ventilation, hopefully she likes her new digs š
i couldnāt see any bugs but can i spray some of this on it to be sure?
Congrats on taking the first plunge! I was so intimidated the first time I repotted an orchid. Just be sure to watch how your orchid responds to the repot, and donāt water until it needs it (look for the silver). If you didnāt see any pests and there is no sign of pest damage (which I donāt see any sign of in your photos), I wouldnāt treat. You can do it prophylactically, but there is the issue of built up resistance with chemical pesticides. And I wouldnāt spray an insecticide on you plant. You donāt know how it will affect the plant.
0 gillningar