Repotted this overwatered orchid that was super discounted at the grocery store a little while ago. It seems to be a lot happier in the orchid bark and I’m really surprised that this last bloom is still hanging on. Does anyone have tips or advice for what to do when your orchid goes into dormancy? I’m new to taking care of them :)
If the spike stays green you can leave it, if it goes brown then cut it at the base. Continue to care for your orchid as normal and it will put out a new spike when its ready. You can also start to fertilize once the flowers are gone and then stop again once it starts to put out a new flower spike.
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Since this is a new orchid, the media is probably at the end of its useful lifespan so you’ll probably need to repot when it’s done blooming. If it is in sphagnum, it’s probably tightly packed. That’s not a great setup for the home grower. Or if it’s in bark, the media is beginning to break down. Generally, you’ll need to repot every 2-3 years or when the media is broken down. Wait until the last bloom drops. I typically cut the inflorescence back to the base of the plant. Some people like to leave them because you may get additional blooms on an existing spike and cutting creates a wound. I feel like with proper hygiene, the risk of infection is low and the blooms next year are bigger and more numerous. Plus it makes repotting easier. When you get ready to repot, I would first give it a good soak as things are easier when hydrated. Take the orchid out of the pot and gently remove the media from the roots. Try get it all, but it’s fine if you have to leave some so you don’t damage the roots. And don’t worry if you damage some roots. It isn’t great but it happens. Just try to minimize as much as possible. Examine the roots for health and pests. Trim off any dead or dying roots. Dead roots are papery or mushy, black or brown. Healthy roots are firm and green when wet, silvery when dry. Deeper into the media you may encounter pale yellow roots. It just means they haven’t been exposed to light. They are fine as long as they are firm. I would leave any wrinkled roots as long as they are firm. Use an orchid pot with additional ventilation. They are typically clear so you can monitor root development, and have ventilation holes on the sides of the pot. If you don’t have one, you can add holes to a growers pot or any other plastic pot you have on hand. Size the pot so that the roots just fit in the pot. They like a tight fit. To minimize transplant shock, use a similar mix to what it currently is in. If your plant is in sphagnum, I would repot using a mix of 50% sphagnum 50% bark. That will allow moisture to hang around long enough for the roots to take in what they want without cutting off air circulation. If you are a heavy waterer you can reduce the amount of sphagnum in your mix. My preference is straight bark. The key is a loose airy mix that will allow the roots to dry between waterings. Regardless of what mix you use, gently work it around the roots. I use an old chopstick for the job. The goal is to firmly seat the plant in the pot without packing the media. You want an airy mix that allows the roots to grab the water they want and then dry out. The most important thing to keep in mind is orchids like their water but the LOVE for their roots to dry out. The best way to tell is to look at the roots. Green roots = don’t water. Silver roots = watering time. The type of media dictates how I water. I grow most of my Phalanopsis in bark so they dry out reasonably fast in my growing conditions. When the phal is ready for some water, I soak the pot for 10-15 minutes. Each time I water, I use fertilizer at 1/4 strength. Wait until the media dries out (look for silver roots) before watering again. For my setup, that works out to roughly once a week. For plants in sphagnum, I top water only because soaking causes the sphagnum to take in too much water. These orchids usually are ready for water every second week. Again this is based on my growing conditions so watch your plant to determine when it wants water. Once a month flush with pure water to reduce salt buildup (this is especially important if you are using synthetic fertilizer or have hard water). Put your plant in in bright but indirect light. Direct sun will burn a phal pretty quickly. Too low and you won’t get blooms. I have mine an a west window that is shaded by landscaping. They get absolutely no direct sun. If the edges of the leaves turn reddish you know you are at the max limit of sun for your plant. The best tip for orchids is learn. Read up on their care if you are so inclined. There are several channels on YouTube with information on orchid care, like Miss Orchid Girl, Here.. but Not, Hello Plant Lovers and Growing Orchids With Roger. Podcasts like Plant Daddy and On the Ledge are useful. The American Orchid Society is another handy resource. I especially like their monthly to do lists. If you really want to dive into the rabbit hole, you can look for orchid societies in your area; nothing can replace interacting directly with growers that have been doing it for years. I find caring for orchids very rewarding and mildly frustrating. Luckily they are tough plants. As long as you don’t drown them, you will do great. Good luck!
1 j'aime Thank you this is very helpful :)
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