Bella
I have a thriving orchid but it has 3 new shoots and looks packed in its planter. Should I repot it? And if yes, how? I’m a new orchid owner.
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I have a thriving orchid but it has 3 new shoots and looks packed in… | The Orchid Oasis | Plantaコミュニティ
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- Jonah
What kind of orchid is this? I only have phals so probably can’t advise. You might get more feedback if you post same question to reddit r/orchids ! Lots of very active people with a lot of experience there
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MeasomerPiYou have a dendrobium nobile. They are interesting orchids that require different growing conditions depending on the time of year. Don’t confuse the dendrobium nobile with your typical dendrobium. They have a different form and need different care (mostly with regard to the rest period). First off, these are deciduous. Older canes can loose leaves in fall/winter as they enter dormancy. Those will not develop new leaves but they do continue to provide additional resources to the rest of the plant during leaner times (think pseudobulb). Fortunately the new canes leaf up nicely. A good sign of dormancy is the ends of the new canes will develop terminal leaves. Basically if you see a little bump on the end of the cane, it’s done growing. This starts to happen November-ish. You want to begin withholding water and fertilizer. If canes wrinkle significantly, you can give it a tiny drink. Most sources say they need a drop in temperature of around 10 deg during dormancy to initiate blooming. I have yet to figure out how to do that in a home setting. They want a lot of light but no direct sunlight. I keep mine with cattleyas without any signs of scorching. I think your plant might need more light because the newer growths shouldn’t be leaning or curving. During active growth (new cane development begins spring-ish), they want to mostly dry out between waterings. Feed regularly during active growth. They seem to respond well to the weakly weekly method. They also like to be kept in smaller pots, which I find challenging because they get super top heavy quickly. Cachepots can be very helpful here. Repot every 2 to 3 years or when the media breaks down. Typically new plants come in tightly packed sphagnum or a bark mix that’s past its prime. For that reason, I try to repot mine after the last bloom drops (but more often than not i don’t get around to it until the following year). I start with a good soak as it makes things easier and the roots are a little more flexible when wet. Take the orchid out of the pot and gently remove the media from the roots. You might use a probe to help tease bits away from the roots. Try get it all, but it’s fine if you have to leave a little so you don’t damage the roots. And don’t worry if you damage some roots. It isn’t great but it happens. Just try to minimize as much as possible. Luckily, a healthy plant will produce copious amount of new roots. Examine the roots for health and pests. Trim off any dead or dying roots. Dead roots are papery or mushy, black or brown or thin filaments. Healthy roots are firm and white. Sometimes they turn green when wet, but I find the change isn’t as dramatic as with phals or Cattleyas. Use an orchid pot with additional ventilation. They are typically clear so you can monitor root development, and have ventilation holes on the sides of the pot. If you don’t have one, you can add holes to a growers pot or any other plastic pot you have on hand. Size the pot so that the roots just fit in the pot. Like I said earlier, they do better in relatively small pots. Dendrobium roots are thin so the media should be sized accordingly. Media should be course but not too big, and no fines so roots can get good airflow. Think bark, charcoal, pumice, perlite, lava and leca. If you’re miserly with the water, you might consider some sphagnum but be very thoughtful of that addition to the mix. The key is an airy mix that will allow the roots to dry between waterings. Like most orchids, they love their water but the roots have to dry out. Gently work the media around the roots. I use an old chopstick for the job. The goal is to firmly seat the plant in the pot without packing the media. Remember, these guys get top heavy and a wobbly plant only leads to heartache. Mine keikis pretty freely so yay for free plants. I remove them when they have around two inches or leaves and roots. I have read some advice to leave them attached to the mother plant because it’s just more flowering real estate. Personally, I like the insurance of an additional, separate plant incase something goes south with the mother. Also, don’t be afraid to experiment. What works for me and my growing conditions may not be the right fit for you. The best tip for orchids, regardless of type, is learn. Read up on their care if you are so inclined. There are several channels on YouTube with information on orchid care, like Miss Orchid Girl, Here.. but Not, and Hello Plant Lovers. The American Orchid Society is another handy resource. If you really want to dive into the rabbit hole, you can look for orchid societies in your area; nothing can replace interacting directly with growers that have been doing it for years.
いいね 1件- Bella
Thank you so much for all the information. I will work on repotting my orchid according to what you are telling me.
いいね 1件 - Jen
Pi! I was hoping you’d comment! Haven’t heard from you in a while. Hope you are well!
いいね 1件 - MeasomerPi
Hi Jen! Doing good, thanks. Hope you are enjoying the spring as everything wakes up 😁
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