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Please help! I’ve had this orchid for around 1.5 months now, and as… | The Orchid Oasis | Planta-community

Overeager Orchids

Please help! I’ve had this orchid for around 1.5 months now, and as you can see one of the orchids is really doing well but the other (the left one) is dying. I bought it at the supermarket and was using ice cubes, but YouTube said not to so I’m not. I just watered it the right way today but I need help on reviving the orchid on the left that’s wilted and sad. The green roots have gotten thicker because of today’s watering but the wilted roots are still not in great condition. Any help is greatly appreciated!

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7 reacties

  1. MeasomerPi

    Your Phalanopsis looks reasonable to me. They don’t stay in flower indefinitely. Yours is just ending it’s blooming cycle. Clip the dying inflorescence back to the base of the plant. When the other finishes blooming, I would cut that one back too. The media looks very broken down so I would do a repot. Generally, you’ll need to repot every 2-3 years or when the media is broken down. When your ready to repot, first give it a good soak as things are easier when hydrated. Take the orchid out of the pot and gently remove the media from the roots. Try get it all, but it’s fine if you have to leave some so you don’t damage the roots. And don’t worry if you damage some roots. It isn’t great but it happens. Just try to minimize as much as possible. Examine the roots for health and pests. Trim off any dead or dying roots. Dead roots are papery or mushy, black or brown. Healthy roots are firm and green when wet, silvery when dry. Deeper into the media you may encounter pale yellow roots. It just means they haven’t been exposed to light. They are fine as long as they are firm. I would leave any wrinkled roots as long as they are firm. If the plant does not fit in your current pot, upsize so that the roots just fit in the pot. They like a tight fit. If you have to upsize, orchid pots with additional ventilation are very helpful. They are typically clear so you can monitor root development. If you don’t have one, you can add holes to a growers pot or any other plastic pot you have on hand. To minimize transplant shock, use a similar mix to what it currently is in. it looks like its mostly bark. My preference is straight bark because i am a heavy waterer. If you want a little more water retention, use a mix of no more than 50% sphagnum 50% bark. That will allow moisture to hang around long enough for the roots to take in what they want without cutting off air circulation. The key is a loose airy mix that will allow the roots to dry between waterings. Regardless of what mix you use, gently work it around the roots. I use an old chopstick for the job. The goal is to firmly seat the plant in the pot without packing the media. You want an airy mix that allows the roots to grab the water they want and then dry out. Orchids like their water but the LOVE for their roots to dry out. When I water, I soak the pot for 10-15 minutes. Wait until the media dries out (look for silver roots). For my setup, that works out to once a week. Each time I water, I use fertilizer at 1/4 strength. Once a month flush with pure water to reduce salt buildup (this is especially important if you are using synthetic fertilizer). Put your plant in in bright but indirect light. I know, I know, every plant wants that. But direct sun will burn a phal pretty quickly. Too low and you won’t get blooms. I have mine an a west window that is shaded by landscaping. They get absolutely no direct sun. If the edges of the leaves turn reddish you know you are at the max limit of sun for your plant. I find caring for orchids very rewarding and mildly frustrating. Luckily they are tough plants. As long as you don’t drown it you will do great. Good luck

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    • Overeager Orchids

      One last thing, what fertilizer would you recommend ?I’ve been looking all over the internet but there are just so many different types and brands! Thanks!

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    • Overeager Orchids

      Sorry because I already said last thing, but I’m getting ready to repot,and I noticed that there are wooden sticks kind of like chopsticks with a point on the bottom to stick through the media. I’ve read that orchids love to climb, so,l should I take out and poke back in the current sticks when I repot, or should I buy new sticks or not have any sticks at all? If I should keep and re poke the sticks back in, I’m wondering that since I clipped the dying stem back to the base, should I poke the stick in the media and wait for the stem to grow around it, or keep the stick until the stem gets long enough to poke in for it to climb? Or is there another method that you use that I should be aware of? 😅

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    • MeasomerPi

      To stake it not to stake. That is the question. It’s really question of preference. Phals are fine without them. But if you want the flowers presented in a specific way then go for it. I generally don’t steak mine unless I have a specific need like the inflorescence is way to heavy or I need it to grow in a specific way to suit my space. I like to reuse stakes. You know - reduce, reuse, recycle.

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    • Overeager Orchids

      So in other words, I can make the stem go where I want with the stakes but without it just does whatever and may go to the side, so it’s just a matter of personal preference.

      2 likes
    • MeasomerPi

      You got it

      1 like
  2. MeasomerPi

    I have had good success with Espoma’s orchid fertilizer at 1/4 strength with every watering. But because humans are mercurial creatures and love to change successful strategies on a whim, I am trying out RePotMe’s MSU food at half strength with every watering, with a water flush once a month. I think the most important thing to remember with fertilizer is it’s not so much they brand but that you do not over fertilize. That’s why I reduce the dosage by half to a quarter. As long as my plants are getting enough light and not too much water, I feel like the plants are getting most of what they need to thrive.

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