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The picture on the right is a before picture and the picture on the… | Foliage Plant Haven | Plantaコミュニティ

Lynda

The picture on the right is a before picture and the picture on the left is current. Since I trimmed off quite a few leaves because of black spot damage, (she is undergoing a treatment of neem), she is looking a bit sparse. Can I put a GROW LIGHT on her, even though she’s considered low light, and will it help her to grow back new leaves more quickly? If I do, do I start with low light and low strength, so I don’t shock her or should I go Head full speed with long light, high strength? I am very unclear how to use plant lights on plants and not cause them harm. TXS for any comments. 😊💚🪴

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2件のいいね 13件のコメント

13件のコメント

  1. K

    A grow light isn’t a bad idea, and I’d definitely suggest acclimating her. In production greenhouses these are often grown at well beyond what most people can get through their windows alone, so she should be able to take it. You can acclimate by starting her farther from the light or with the light on a lower setting, then increasing every week or so. Keep in mind that more growth will mean more demand for water and nutrients, so watch in case the pot dries out faster. Nutrient-wise my preference is to watch the plant carefully for signs that it wants more fertilizer and then bump it up, but people who are more aggressive about growth will sometimes increase right off the bat and then back off at the first sign of toxicity instead. Keeping her on the warm side will also help, so if you have a warmer spot, a heat mat, or a warm mist setting on your humidifier then consider trying that out, too.

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    • Elle Woods

      What are the nutrient signs you look out for as in needing nutrients vs nutrient toxicity?

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    • Lynda

      Thank you so much for such an informative post…that was absolutely amazing. You appear to be very knowledgeable.🤓 Just to recap, I’ve put a grow light on her at a low setting and will increase it every week as you suggested. Heat – She’s in a bathroom with a heated floor that’s set at 85° but she’s sitting on a very cold counter. Should I put heating pad under her on low or partially under her, maybe? Humidity – I shower in that bathroom and we have a humidifier in our bedroom adjacent to the bathroom; so I’m guessing she’s probably OK humidity-wise??? Fertilizer – With every watering, I use Plant Juice by Elm Dirt and also add one quarter teaspoon of Super Thrive Vitamins, and 4 cups of peroxide (to combat fungus gnats) to make up the gallon of liquid that I use to feed my plants. Would you recommend something that’s more of a powerhouse fertilizer for her? I’m sorry this is so wordy, but I can’t let you escape with all that knowledge and not ask you about some of my more pressing concerns. Again, thanks for your time and intelligence; you are truly a credit to Planta. Regards…😊💚🪴

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    • K

      ☺️ You’re so kind! If you think she’s in mid-70s then she’s probably fine without a heating pad. Humidity is probably fine then. Does your humidifier give you a number by chance, or is it more a continuous misting model? You’re doing a 3:1 water peroxide ratio every watering? Does it work to control the gnats?

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    • Lynda

      Yes, my humidifier does give numbers and it usually shows anywhere between 50 to 60% humidity in that particular area of our home. Regarding fungus gnats, I’m doing a 4:1 water, peroxide ratio. I’m curious to know where you came up with the 3:1 ratio; perhaps I’m not using enough peroxide??? I understand that even if it doesn’t get rid of fungus gnats, that the high oxygen content in the peroxide, is really good for your plants… What do you think? However, it seems that occasionally I do see what I think might be a fungus gnat, but I’m not absolutely sure and I certainly don’t see anything but the occasional one of whatever it is. 😬 I am wondering that since plants are on varying watering schedules that it may keep the ones I’ve just watered with that particular 4:1 ratio, gnat-free; but the gnats may still live in some of my plants that have not been recently watered. If I could water everything at once, I think I could get every single fungus gnat, but obviously, I’m unable to do that because each plant has a very specific watering schedule…different from every other plant. Am I making myself a clear as mud?!🥴 I hope that clarifies my text somewhat, unless it doesn’t! 😁 Nice texting with you. You are so kind to take the time to help me and I appreciate it! Regards… 😊💚🪴

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    • K

      That absolutely makes sense! I got the 3:1 ratio from you saying 4 cups peroxide go into your gallon. Are they in addition to the gallon instead? Hydrogen peroxide is helpful for things like root rot and pests because it reacts rapidly with organic material, essentially stealing electrons to turn into water and oxygen and breaking down the pests in the process. The potential downside is that it will kill beneficial bacteria and fungi as well. I think it’s probably fine as long as you stay away from organic fertilizers, which are typically broken down by microorganisms into forms that can be used by the plant.

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  2. K

    Mild chlorosis will show up if they need nutrients, and will look like a normal green in and around the veins with a lighter or more yellow-toned green between them. To catch it early it can help to hold it up to the light or shine a light behind the leaf, because it will be pretty subtle early on. This usually indicates nitrogen deficiency, but in these guys can also be a sign they need iron. Either way, most fertilizers will take care of it. Necrotic (crispy/brown) tip on the newest leaf is usually the first sign they’re getting too much fertilizer, especially if other things (like soil ph and light levels) are adequate. Occasionally you’ll see it at the leaf margin instead, but that’s much less common. And just generally, always look to the newest growth for the best indication of your plant’s health/nutrition.

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    • Lynda

      I’m curious, how did you get to know so much; are you a botanist? Sorry, I’m really being too nosy, but I am amazed at all of your knowledge! 😊💚🪴

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    • K

      Thank you! I took a couple plant biology courses back in the day, so I think I had a good foundation to understand my plants. Beyond that it’s been a combination of trial and error, asking questions, and lots of reading. I think the thing that really made the difference is focusing on one genus or topic at a time, then moving on only once I feel really comfortable and all my plants are doing well with it. So I started years ago with just succulents, then once I felt good with them I started adding ficuses, then vining/trailing aroids, and so on. And there are some plants I know don’t interest me enough to get really into if they struggle (ferns and hibiscus come to mind) so I don’t buy them.

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    • Lynda

      WOW! You are really a powerhouse of learning…Maybe I can focus better if, like you, I learn about one specie at a time in depth. TXS. 😊💚🪴

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  3. Lynda

    Questions on REPOTTING. I made a mistake🙄, as usual, and made a new post about repotting under my original post about grow lights. 😖 If you know much about repotting, can you please check that post rather than my typing it all over again? 🥴TIA for your trouble and comments. 😘 Regards… 😊💚🪴

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    • K

      I’m looking but I don’t see the post! Maybe screenshot and put it here? I wish we could see someone’s posts on their profile and not just their plants

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    • Lynda

      Don’t worry about that post… several other Planta members came to my rescue and answered that particular question! But thanks so much for inquiring. 😊💚🪴

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