Hyacinth

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Hyacinth Trivia

Hyacinths make lovely fragrant flowers to be enjoyed both as seasonal plants and as perennials in your garden. They come in a range of colors and can also continue to be grown after they've flowered, as long as they get the right environment.

Origin

The hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis originates in the eastern Mediterranean where it grows as a bulbous plant with multiple thinner flower spikes. Skilled hybridizers have crafted numerous varieties beyond the wild type throughout the years. While most for sale showcase a main big flower spike like the ones we're used to see, others resemble the wild type with smaller, less dense blooms. Hyacinth flowers span colors from white, pink, peach to yellow, red, purple, blue, and nearly black. Fragrance often correlates with color, with darker hues, notably blue, boasting richer scents

Annual Growth Cycle

Hyacinths evolved their bulb structure to withstand dry spells in their natural habitat. In spring, they emerge from bare bulbs, blooming with flowers and making leaves. Once the flowers fade, the plant persists in leaf growth, saving up energy and resources for the upcoming year. This leafy phase extends for several months post-flowering, gradually wilting before entering dormancy in mid or late summer. Throughout the dormant phase, lasting until the following spring, the bulb conserves energy until the cycle renews.

Care

Hyacinths are generally rather hardy plants as long as they receive the right growing conditions. One very common mistake is to grow it indoors for an extended time. This is unfortunately not a plant that's suitable to be grown in room conditions for any extended time and it will slowly decline in such a setting. Waking it up from its dormancy and displaying the flowers indoors is often okay, but after that it's best to move it to cooler temperatures for further growth. When grown in the ground they're generally winter hardy from USDA zone 4-8.

Starting a dormant bulb

For a bulb to grow and bloom well next year, it's crucial to give it a dry and cool resting period lasting a couple of months. If you aim to make a hyacinth bulb flower indoors during winter, it needs prior preparation. Bulbs sold separately are usually intended for outdoor planting (for flowering in the garden later on in spring) and might not have had the necessary dormant period yet. However, there are bulbs specifically prepared for growing as seasonal plants indoors in water or containers. These bulbs might already exhibit new growth when purchased and are often sold pre-planted in pots.

Starting in water

Starting a hyacinth in water is very simple. We recommend to use a hyacinth vase that enables the bulb to rest over the water below. Thus minimizing the risk of rot. Place it in a bright spot with at least part direct daily sunlight and make sure that the root end of the bulb is placed down. Fill up water so that it just touches the root end at the bottom of the bulb and continue to fill it up whenever needed. As long as it receives plenty of light and has a constant supply of water in the vase the plant will grow and flower well on its own. Changing the water is necessary now and then in order to keep it fresh. When using Planta, set the soil type to "water" in the soil settings for the plant and you'll automatically get a task for when it's time to change water.

Starting in soil

Plant the bulb with the root end down in a pot with porous and airy soil. The top ½ to ⅓ of the bulb can preferably be left above the soil line as it can help prevent rot - plus it's also decorative. The hyacinth bulb will need plenty of bright light and close to room temperature to be able to wake up and start growing again. The bulb already has a lot of water stored inside of it. Watering to hydrate the plant is therefore not that important in the beginning. You will however need to water it lightly so that the soil hydrates lightly throughout the pot, letting it dry close to fully in between. A dormant or recently started bulb will be more prone to overwatering and rot than to dehydration. Hydrating the soil, giving it bright light and higher temperatures will all induce growth and flowering.

As soon as some leaves have emerged and the flower spike is emerging you will have to water it more as it will use up more water, but never let the soil stay constantly moist.

During the flowering period

In room temperature the flowers will usually last for a week or so. Placing it in a cooler area can increase the duration of the bloom a lot. It can be moved to temperatures down to 50°F or +10°C to at least double the length of flowering.

After flowering

In order to continue growing the plant now, you'll have to move it to a cooler and bright site free from freezing temperatures to continue collecting resources via its leaves for a couple of months. If the risk of freezing temperatures is over in your area you can slowly transition it to a sheltered spot outdoors. Let the plant grow for as long as it can until it starts wilting on its own. After that you can either store it in a pot or plant it in the ground.

When a plant that's been grown is water is done flowering we recommend planting it in a pot with soil instead, alternatively directly in the ground as long as it's acclimated to the outdoor conditions first. Note that it can't handle close to freezing temperatures at this point.

Prepare and care throughout the dormancy

If planted in the ground you don't need to do much other than covering the bulb with leaves or other insulating material in late fall. If you keep it in a pot it's best to either temporarily dig down the pot to that the soil line in the pot matches the ground level, or you can store it in an environment protected from most freezing temperatures and rain. When grown in a pot the bulb is much more exposed to the elements throughout the winter months, and not as reliably winter hardy.

Skipping a cooler dormancy is not recommended.

Other

Hyacinths are toxic to both pets and people due to the oxalic acids they contain.