How to repot your fern

Nothing beats watching a fern unfurl a new frond. Repotting is an essential step to keep that momentum going. A modest pot upgrade now and then gives the delicate roots fresh soil and room to keep expanding.

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Is it time to repot?

Signs your fern needs repotting

  • Roots are poking through the bottom drainage holes, or you see a dense network of roots wrapping around the outside of the root ball when you unpot the plant

  • The plant is now big, and the pot looks small in comparison to the plant's size and number of fronds

  • The soil dries out faster than usual between waterings

Signs to hold off on repotting

  • Soil falls apart easily when you check the root ball

  • Soil stays wet for a long time after watering

  • Roots look shriveled, mushy or moldy, and the plant shows other signs of stress. Pause repotting and visit Dr. Planta (stethoscope icon 🩺) in the app to diagnose the problem first
    (Note that a number of ferns naturally have dark colored roots)

Recommended soil types for ferns

Ferns thrive in rich, moisture-holding mixes rather than dry, sandy soils. We recommend picking up a potting mix designed for indoor foliage plants, or mixing your own using potting soil and soil amendments to balance moisture and airflow.

Recommended soil types

This is how you repot your fern

  1. Prep your space, materials and equipment
    Avoid too much direct sunlight and wind. If you're working indoors, lay down a repotting mat, some old newspaper, or a flattened plastic bag to catch falling soil.

    Keep your soil, pot, and any tools you might need close by so everything is within reach.

  2. Remove the pot
    Avoid pulling hard on the fronds. It can help to tilt the pot on its side and pull the pot off the root ball rather than lifting the plant straight up.

    If the root ball is stuck in the pot, we have some tips:

    • Gently squeeze or press the sides if it’s in a flexible pot.

    • Run a dull knife or similar tool along the inner edge of the pot to release the roots.

    • If the rim is narrower than the body, you might have to break ceramic pots or cut thin plastic ones open to free the roots safely.

  3. Choose the new pot
    Aim for a pot about a quarter wider in diameter (a 25% increase). For smaller ferns, this typically means a 1- to 2-inch (2.5 - 5 cm) upgrade.

  4. Add soil to the bottom
    Pour a bottom layer of fresh soil into the new pot. Set the plant inside. The top of the root ball should sit slightly below the rim.

  5. Center the plant
    Check that it is centered and positioned as you want it before adding more soil.

  6. Fill with soil
    Add soil around the root ball and tap the sides of the pot to help soil settle without packing it too tightly. Be careful not to plant the fern deeper than it was in its previous pot.

  7. Water
    Water until a bit of water drains from the bottom holes.

  8. Top off soil
    Watering can cause the soil to settle. Check the soil level after the first few waterings, and add extra soil if necessary.

Additional tips

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Pot size

If in doubt, err on the smaller side when picking a new pot. Stepping up just one pot size at a time is also a safe bet. Repotting more frequently in small increments is better than jumping to a massive pot all at once.

Soil level

Be careful not to plant the fern deeper than it was in its previous pot. Ensure the "crown" (the central base where the fronds emerge) or any creeping stems (rhizomes) sit above the soil line. Burying them can cause the plant to rot.

Pot drainage

The pot holding the plant needs at least one bottom drainage hole to allow excess water to pass through freely when you water it.
(Self-watering pots and semi-hydroponic setups are exceptions to this rule)

Clean reused pots

Wash plastic or glazed ceramic containers with soap and water before reusing them. Removing old soil residue eliminates potential hidden pests that could otherwise transfer to your fern.

Protect exposed roots

Work quickly once the plant is out of its pot. Open air quickly dries out their tender roots. Keep a spray bottle handy to mist exposed roots if you need extra time during the process.

After repotting

Repotting can be a stressful event for ferns, especially if the roots get untangled, pruned, or accidentally damaged in the process.

To help your plant bounce back quickly, and avoid potential harm:

  • Keep a closer eye on the soil moisture level. Root disturbance can temporarily slow down how much water the plant drinks. Be prepared to snooze watering tasks in the app if the soil is still too wet.

  • Keep the plant in a bright but protected area for a couple of days to a week. If your plant lives outside, make sure it is shielded from strong winds and too much direct sunlight initially.

  • Do not add plant food right away. Fresh soil already has nutrients, and adding extra fertilizer can burn sensitive or stressed roots. The app will automatically pause feeding tasks for a safe period after a repotting task has been completed.

Frequently asked questions

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I see dark and yellow roots, is this rot?

Many ferns naturally have dark roots with yellow root tips. As long as the plant is healthy otherwise and there’s no foul smell from the root ball, or apparent mold growing directly on the roots, you shouldn’t need to be too worried.

My fern is not starting to get root bound, but I suspect it lacks nutrients. Do I need to repot it anyway?

No. Repotting gives roots more physical room to grow, improves moisture retention, or replaces compacted soil. Repotting it too early purely to supply nutrients is unnecessary and can easily lead to other problems like overwatering and root rot.
If your plant is hungry, start feeding it fertilizer on a regular schedule instead.

When is the best time of year to repot ferns?

Spring and early summer are generally the best times for indoor ferns because the plant is actively growing and will settle into its new pot faster. If you live in a place with dark winters, avoid repotting at other times of the year unless strictly necessary.
Try to repot outdoor ferns before the summer heat kicks in.

Should I repot my new fern immediately after bringing it home?

It’s best to hold off on repotting for at least a week. The plant will benefit from adjusting to the light, humidity and temperature of its new home before facing the stress of repotting.

What should I do if my decorative pot does not have drainage holes? 

It is completely fine to keep your indoor fern in a plastic nursery pot with drainage holes and place it inside a decorative pot without holes. The key is ensuring the pot holding the soil can drain properly. Using a decorative cachepot or saucer makes it easy to lift up the inner pot and empty any collected runoff water after you finish watering your plant.

Just keep in mind that if the plant is outdoors, both pots need drainage holes. Otherwise, rainwater can collect inside and drown the roots.

Can I plant in a pot without drainage holes if I put rocks or gravel at the bottom instead?

We don't recommend doing this because it makes watering much harder to manage. Over time, that gravel layer can still fill up with water, drastically increasing the risk of overwatering and root rot. On the flip side, you might end up underwatering your fern out of fear of pooling water at the bottom.

I have a dying plant. Will repotting it save it?

Not necessarily. While repotting can be one of the necessary steps for certain issues, in many cases it adds unnecessary stress to an already struggling plant rather than helping it. We suggest diagnosing your plant using Dr. Planta (stethoscope icon 🩺) in the app before taking action.

My fern is already in the biggest pot I can get. What should I do?

When your plant reaches its maximum pot size, you can reuse the same pot by trimming its roots. Because their roots tightly tangle together into a solid mass over time, slice off the bottom fifth (20%) of the root ball and replace it with fresh soil in the bottom of the pot.

What should I think about if I need to change the soil?

Replacing old soil with fresh soil carries some risk, but it is sometimes necessary, especially if the nursery soil is too dense and moisture-retentive, or if it has decomposed and compacted over time.

To minimize root damage, try gently rinsing the root ball in water. This helps dislodge stubborn soil with less friction than combing or raking through the roots. Work carefully, as roots can be brittle, and keep in mind that you don't need to strip away every last bit. It is better to leave a little old soil behind than to break healthy roots trying to get them completely clean. Finally, if the root ball hasn't expanded much after removing the old soil, you can often reuse the same pot with a fresh mix.

To prevent soil from compacting as much in the future, use soil mixes with amendments that increase porosity, such as perlite, pumice, volcanic gravel, or burnt clay pebbles. When you see multiple suitable soil types listed for your plant in the app, we recommend choosing one that includes these coarse amendments in the mix over the other ones.